Climbing

North Black Range Bouldering Festival

North Black Range Bouldering Festival

I went down to Canberra to catch up with Duncan Brown, a professional climber and boulderer. Each year Duncan puts on a bouldering festival in the North Black Range near Canberra. The area is strewn with large granite boulders and Duncan has developed a mass of boulder problems and is still putting more in.

The festival was small key which was nice being that it is held in a National Park but it definitely has the potential to be larger still. There was probably about 50 people or so over the weekend who all split into groups and went off exploring the various areas. The whole region is so large that it was rare for two groups to bump into each other unless it was intentional.

In the evening a series of games were held around the campsite. Prizes were given out by the event sponsors for events such as crashpad stacking and who could do the most pull ups on a flake of rock. All in all a nice relaxing time away and good to be out and shoot something different for myself again.

If you want to go check out the region for bouldering Duncan has written the definitive guide and has it for sale on his Athlete by Choice website here

Posted by Richard in Climbing, Events, What's going on
Athlete Profile: Barbara Zangerl, Boulderer

Athlete Profile: Barbara Zangerl, Boulderer

Barbara Zangerl, Pura Vida, 8a+/8b, Magic Wood, Switzerland

Barbara Zangerl, Pura Vida, 8a+/8b, Magic Wood, Switzerland

Austrian Barbara Zangerl is rising at a rapid rate through the climbing world. At just 20 years of age she is setting the pace for all to follow. She recently raised the stakes again by setting a new route called Pura Vida in Switzerland’s premier bouldering area, Magic Wood. Pura Vida (8b) is considered to be the hardest boulder climbed by a woman  .

 

How did you first get involved in climbing:
The first time I got in touch with climbing was when my brother took me to the climbing hall in Flirsch. That was at the age of 14. I enjoyed it from the very beginning. In 2002 I first climbed on real rock in Switzerland and in Tyrol…… that was great, lot of new places , lots of rock. That was much better than climbing indoor. Since that trip I knew that’s my sport.

What’s your local climbing areas:
Galtür in the Silvretta Mountains, Austria and Magic Wood in Averstal, Switzerland. These are very special places not far from my hometown. Galtür is a very cool place in Summer. There is always a good friction and the landscape is beautiful. In Spring I am often in the Magic Wood.

Climber, Barbara Zangerl

Climber, Barbara Zangerl

Favourite climbing area:
In 2006 I was in South Africa, Rocklands. This is my favourite climbing area. There are so many cool boulders, it’s a climbers paradise. But I’ve found good boulder problems in every area I’ve visited in the past. I like different rock and different styles of climbing.

What motivates you to keep climbing?
Climbing is a lot of fun, you have to concentrate just on moving! I like playing with the rock!!!!!! Having a good time with my friends, being outside in the nature and looking for new boulders. I like travelling to find new boulder problems. Basically, when I can do something on my limit, and I’ve worked really hard for it, I feel happy. It’s just an amazing feeling when you manage a move that you haven’t been able to do before.

What other types of climbing do you do. eg alpine, ice?
I like bouldering, climbing routes and alpine sport-climbing but I’ve never tried ice climbing.

Barbara Zangerl, Zwiederwurtz, 8a, Galtür, Austria

Barbara Zangerl, Zwiederwurtz, 8a, Galtür, Austria

What are some of your major accomplishments?
First place: Melloblocco 2006, 2007, 2008
First woman climbing: Pura vida 8a+/8b,
Niviuk 8a/+
X-Ray 8a
Team work 8a
Dr.Pintch 8a,
Rising sun 8a

A bit about bouldering competitions?
I started in some competitions in Austria last year and I will start in some more competitions next year. Climb competitions are exciting. With competitions you have to give it your best at exactly one moment. But for me bouldering on real rock is more important and more fun

Barbara Zangerl, Too young to die, 7a, Galtür, Austria

Barbara Zangerl, Too young to die, 7a, Galtür, Austria

Plans for the future:
At this time I’m still going to school, a medical technical school in Innsbruck. I’m in the last class so next year I will be finished. After school I want to travel more and go bouldering.

Sponsors:
Adidas, Black Diamond, FiveTen

Posted by Richard in Athletes, Climbing, Sport